Lecce and Salento

Santa Croce
Amphitheater

Lecce, a magical city

Walking through the city, you risk being captivated by the ineffable world of Lecce’s Baroque. Here, the churches and palaces were the perfect opportunity to unleash the full creative force and pent-up energy of the Salentines.
Santa Croce bursts forth, supported by caryatids in the triumph of the Cross, masking its secrets: distant and nearby ethnicities in the faces, an ancient magical-religious world in the symbols, and the joy of life of the Apulians in the abundant stone fruits. The Adorno family had to contend with it, building their palace with gentle rustication, framing the wide portal. Competing with that stone lacework was impossible.
It’s a world that captivates, as strongly and suddenly as the religious buildings. This Lecce Baroque, architecture of being, capable of bringing, as the most sensitive assert, to a state where we can hear the incredible vocal ascents of the Martinese Farinelli and the melodies of the Lecce-born Tito Schipa. Voices from Baroque to Art Nouveau, sounds of an architecture distant elsewhere but here tightly intertwined.
Just walk and look around. The historic center is an open-air stage. On palaces and churches, this stone has been carved into fantastic animals, dreamlike and mythological decorations, garlands of flowers and fruit, figures of saints, cherubs, dizzying mirages inspired by the desire to amaze.

Santa Maria di Leuca

Gallipoli

Santa Cesarea Terme

Torre dell' Orso

Otranto - Gateway to the East

Porto Cesareo

Some gems in the city

To the enchanted gaze of those who observe its spectacular facade, it appears like a mirage. The countless decorations of men and fantastic animals, the rich array of symbols surprise those who walk through the sumptuous and solemn interior. The basilica was begun as early as 1353, but its patron, Gualtiero VI of Brienne, died three years later; work resumed only in 1549 thanks to the architects Gabriele Riccardi, Giuseppe Zimbalo, and Cesare Penna, all from Lecce, and the collaboration of numerous craftsmen and stonemasons. The work was completed 150 years later, in 1695, confirming how ambitious the project was; the effects of their prolongation are evident in the stylistic ambiguity of the facade, 16th-century in the lower part and 17th-century in the upper part. The church, together with the adjoining monastery, which already housed the Celestine order, constitutes an extraordinary architectural complex, certainly the grandest expression of Baroque architecture in the Terra d’Otranto. Want to learn more?

It is located at Piazza S. Oronzo, and some parts have been uncovered, almost half of the complex, between 1904 and 1938. The construction dates back to the Augustan age and is of considerable size: 102 x 82 meters; it was partly built by excavating the ground, partly with architecture of arches supported by tuff pillars. These supported a double order of steps, of which only the lower one is preserved. The arena is elliptical and was separated from the steps by a high wall adorned with a marble frieze depicting scenes of hunting wild animals: this refers to the type of shows held in the arena. The surviving pieces of the frieze are placed on the ground, under the parapet; all other notable materials related to the theater, including Latin inscriptions, are found in the gallery carved into the rock that runs around the arena. Finally, it should be noted that a pre-Roman necropolis was also excavated near the amphitheater, which has yielded Messapian inscriptions. Want to learn more?

One of the focal points of the city is Piazza Duomo, one of the most beautiful in Italy. It is accessed through a narrow passage, so the wide, noble, and elegant scene opens unexpectedly to those who approach it for the first time. Its spectacular theatricality greatly impressed the learned travelers of the last century discovering the treasures of the Terra d’Otranto. The German Ferdinand Gregorovius declared: “I have never seen facades with such rich decorations as here”, the Frenchman Paul Bourget recognized in it “light fantasy, mad elegance, and happy grace”, the Englishman Martin Briggs experienced a coup de foudre for the works of art. The square is a sort of theatrical scene: around a courtyard are aligned the Cathedral with the bell tower, the Bishop’s Palace, and ancient palaces. Spectacular, the Cathedral was first built in 1144, then in 1230. It was completely renovated between 1659-70 by Gustavo Zimbalo, to whom the adjoining bell tower is owed. The main facade, rather simple in terms of decoration, develops in two orders enriched by the statues of St. Gennaro, St. Ludovico, and Saints Peter and Paul. The side facade is richly decorated: the lavish portal has two niches with the statues of St. Justus and Fortunatus on the sides and is topped by a balustrade with the majestic statue of St. Oronzo in the center. Want to learn more?

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